Man, it's been busy, but better to post it late than never, right? :)
Who: Me, Pris, Aly, Alon, Viktor, & Mike
Where:
MumbaiWhen: Jan 18 - Jan 20
How: 1 hour flight + taxi
[All pics in this post are courtesy of Pris]
After a short, one-hour flight, we successfully landed in Mumbai. The departure building is beautiful, probably the best-looking airport in all of India. For a moment, I actually felt like I was in L.A. in a nice big city. Of course, the L.A. feeling disappeared after one minute. Soon enough, we were all in taxis on our way to our hotel in Colaba, the southernmost touristy part of Mumbai.
As we were trying to find our taxi to take us to our hotel, we saw that there were two lines, one of which was called "Cool Cabs." We had no idea what that meant and fell into the other line for "Taxis." Later on, we figured out that "Cool Cabs" meant cabs with A/C. I think it's funny that they called it "Cool Cabs".
An hour later, we made it to the Garden Hotel. It was an interesting ride -- the cab driver didn't know where Garden Road was, and I forgot that we're supposed to provide landmarks instead of street names, since they won't always know all of the streets. After stopping and asking several people, we eventually made it and got situated in our rooms. We went back out to eat dinner at the posh restaurant Indigo, where I was quite pleased with my teriyaki chicken and creme brulee. (Those are two of my dietary staples in the States.) Of course, the others couldn't resist that there was steak on the menu and went for that instead. :)
The next day (Saturday) was ridiculously busy. We crammed 2 days worth of stuff into one:
8am - Free breakfast at the Godwin hotel next door. (I just ate bread and tea.)
9am - Walked past the Taj Palace Hotel and to the Gate of India. It looked cool, and probably would've looked even cooler if there wasn't scaffolding on it. We hopped on a ferry boat to Elephanta Island. The ride took an hour, but it was nice and relaxing.
Taj Palace on the left, Gate of India on the right.10am - Elephanta Island. People usually go here to look at the caves and temples, but I personally thought they weren't as impressive compared to Hampi's. In fact, the monkeys were more interesting. The island had monkeys EVERYWHERE, and we took hundreds of pictures of them. They were cute and fun to watch, but you really have to keep your distance, as they can be vicious if upset. In fact, a mommy monkey got upset at Aly (who was taking pics) and went up and grabbed her skirt. Eeeek. After all the sightseeing, we took a little soda break before hopping back on the ferry.
The group on the ferry.1pm - Hungry. Naturally hungry. Aly and Pris found an interesting place in the Lonely Planet book called the National Hindu Hotel. We walked for about 20-25 minutes, and when we finally found it, I think I had a mixed feeling of intrigue and disgust. There were rows of tables with banana leaves at each seat, and servers were walking around with buckets and plopping food on the banana leaves for people to eat with their hands. Now, I actually think the concept is fantastic and would love to adapt this for Filipino culture back home, but ... the place wasn't exactly sanitary. You could see the dirt from the kitchen, and you had no idea in what conditions the food was cooked or the dishes were washed. We sucked it up, took a chance at contamination, and dined for the experience. The food was actually good, although I admittedly only ate the dal and one of the things schlopped on my banana leaf. But I think the experience was fantastic and definitely something interesting to talk about. I'm sure all of the locals got a kick out of watching these foreigners trying to eat like them.
Serving the food from the buckets.
Food served on a banana leaf. Eat with your hands only!
This is also the point at which I realized that if I'm not satisfied with the sanitary conditions of a place (i.e. dirt or bugs) that I'll actually lose my appetite and eat less, regardless of how hungry I was initially.
2pm - Hands washed, stomachs full and psychosomatically uneasy. We found one taxi driver who was willing to let us cram 6 people into one taxi -- 2 of us in the front and 4 of us in the back. This is highly illegal and the driver was highly cautious. We got lots of amused smiles from people as we drove to our next destination.
2:30pm - Haji Ali's Mosque. It's a shrine that contains the tomb of the Muslim saint Haji. The location is pretty cool. After standard security checks, you pass by about 100m of street markets, and then walk 300-400m along a strip pathway that leads to the mosque. It was dry at the time, but it's actually supposed to be surrounded by water. At high tide, the pathway is covered up, and the mosque becomes an island. Unique, huh? Since it's a holy place, we had to take off our shoes to go inside, and women and men had separate entrances. I felt a little uncomfortable being a tourist inside a holy place where people were actually praying. In fact, I always do when people are actually worshipping, because I know I'd probably be a little upset if I was in prayer and suddenly people were just looking around and oohing and ahhing and taking pictures. I stayed around for a few short minutes before heading out. It was just enough time for me to see the colorful tomb with intricate decorations around it. Women were getting splashed with what I assume was holy water, before kneeling in prayer or meditation. It was an interesting sight.
On the pathway to the mosque. The contrast of the poor on the path, high-rise in the background.
The mosque.3:30pm - After this point, we were no longer able to convince any cab drivers to let us have 6 people in one car. They all thought that we were crazy, or panicked when we attempted to squeeze in. We wanted to stay together to prevent separating and getting lost, but we were luckily able to find cabs in 2's so that we could split 3 and 3. Luckily we had Pris, who is the queen at negotiating and getting us cabs at a reasonable rate. We found two cabs and were again on our way.
4pm - Banganga Tank. This was a holy tank (basically a pool full of water) with surrounding temples. It was hidden inside a village, so the cab had to drop us off from the road and we had to wander our way in. I would have probably called the village a slum, but I don't think it was a slum by India standards. What's interesting is that despite it being poor, you still feel quite safe. I don't get that feeling in the States -- if I walk through a poor area I'm scared for my life. But here in India, people are generally nice and friendly (and of course curious). This village wasn't heavily populated, so it was easy to walk through.
We eventually found the tank. From the Lonely Planet book: "The wooden pole in the centre of the tank is the centre of the earth - according to legend Lord Ram created the tank by piercing the earth with his arrow." It was a peaceful scene, and there was lots of small temples surrounding it. In a few meters in one direction, we were able to walk out to some rocks that overlooked the sea water. We also encountered a family with an adorable girl who loved having pictures being taken of her by Pris. I was personally intrigued by the narrow walkways, and these tiny rooms with sewing machines that literally couldn't hold any more than the sewing machine and the person at the machine. The ones I passed had men sewing clothes for little kids. It was interesting to realize that that's how they make their living, and there I was, witnessing it in their living conditions.
The tank.I've heard that despite their living conditions and the caste system, the Indian people are one of the happiest people in the world. And I believe it. There's nothing more simultaneously warming and heartbreaking than seeing these children on the street smile and light up when they see you. But they genuinely seem happy.
5:30pm - Chowpatty Beach. Well, almost. Some of the guys weren't feeling well due to the heat (and perhaps the earlier meal), so we stopped by a cafe for soda and tea. The sun was starting to go down, so it was starting finally cool down.
6pm-ish - Chowpatty Beach, for real this time. And we'd just missed the sunset. Haha. Well, it was still setting, but it was already behind the buildings. It was still a nice sight though. Mumbai actually appears to have two skylines -- you could see the outline of buildings to the left and the right from Chowpatty Beach. That just goes to show how many high-rise buildings they have spread out throughout Mumbai. We walked on the sand for a bit and enjoyed the view.

7pm - Back at the apartment and exhausted. We freshened up and took naps, in anticipation of Mumbai night life.
8pm - Dinner time. We wandered around, looking for something friendly and easier on the stomach (mentally) than the National Hindu Hotel. We ended up at Leopold's Bar, a touristy spot which served the usual mix of Indian, Chinese, and continental food. As usual, I got my fries. I also shared some chicken tikka masala and naan with the others. Nothing special, but decent. The waiter was actually really nice and funny. Instead of trying to trick us into ordering too much food, he was honest and let us know that we were ordering way too much. He also made jokes -- when we asked for the bill, he said "No bill, it's free." In fact, he did that twice. Unfortunately we didn't run with the joke and leave, because he did eventually come out with the bill. ;)
10:30pm - Time for the Mumbai nightlife, right?!?!? So we choose to go to Polly Esther's, which sounds just like the ones back in the States - 70s/80s/funky music, complete with afros. Except there were no afros, and in fact, no people. Apparently 10:30pm is still too early, and people don't arrive until around midnight. I was skeptical when the door guys told us that, but sure enough, the club grew from 7 people to 100. We had our share of fun. The club played lots of songs we could sing along to: "I Will Survive", "You're the One I Want" etc. Toward the end, they played more dance-ish music, and you can bet that I got uber-excited when they started playing "Bebot"!! Seriously, Bebot? Again? The song must be popular if that's the second time I'd heard it in the club. (I later found out that the Black Eyed Peas are in fact very popular around here and the song does get a lot of air play.)
1am - Long day. We went to the hotel and slept. :)
Alright, you still with me? Now that's just
day 1. Still one more day to go!
Sunday ...
10am - We decided to sleep in. I woke up starting around 8ish, but by 10am I was up and showered.
11am - We had brunch at the Taj Mahal Palace (the hotel). It's an incredibly nice hotel. In fact, it's so nice, it has
its own wikipedia entry, and deservedly so. It's supposedly the first of the Taj hotel chain,
and the place is gorgeous, completely with a swimming pool, beautiful fountains, fancy chairs and tables, and every other nice thing you could possibly imagine. I enjoyed some waffles and toast (but unfortunately the caramel topping they gave me cooled down and hardened).
12pm - Crawford Market. Or not. That's where we wanted to go, but upon stepping out of the Taj, we found out that there was a Muslim holiday and all of the markets were closed!! Really disappointing isn't it? The markets are supposed to be really active and busy and fun, with the narrow walkways and numerous stands that you would expect at any market (except more crowded since it's Indian). That really dampened our day (and not to mention, ruined our schedule). We ended up just walking around the Colaba and Fort area for awhile, taking stops at random things like the Mumbai University or the little shops on the streets.
Mumbai University3:30pm - At this point we were just trying to kill time. We grabbed our belongings from the hotel, and then stopped by a cafe to grab more coffee and a snack. This was probably the closest I've gotten to Starbucks around here (but it still didn't quite hit the spot the way Starbucks does). I forgot the name of the cafe, but I think it's just a chain. There's actually one just next door to the office, but I haven't been to it yet.
4:45pm - We decided to take a quick stop by the Mahalaxmi Dhobi Ghat on the way to the airport. This is the world's biggest laundry machine -- man-powered, that is. There were basically tons of stalls, and people just beating the dirt (literally) out of the clothes. Interestingly, the clothes did appear to be sorted out and washed by color. Whites over here, reds over there. We had an aerial view from the train station. We also took a quick stop into the surrounding village area, where I immediately felt uncomfortable being surrounded by tons (ok, 15) of curious people who wanted to know who we were and where we from. I'm used to the occasional person questioning me here and there, but having several people surround me at once was quite overwhelming. Thankfully, Alon gestured that we should get out of there, so we left the village and back to the top area while we waited for the others to finish taking pictures. Unfortunately the crowd seemed to follow us, so we crossed the street to get away.
The Dhobi Ghat.5:30pm - After getting bumrushed from an oncoming procession (and I was quite upset that someone may have snuck in a quick touch or two ... but it happens), we rushed into a cab and were on our way again to the airport. This time the trip was super trafficky -- apparently the Prime Minister was coming! We panicked because a) we thought we'd miss our flight, and b) we couldn't figure out which airport to go to! We said we had to go to CST (which is what's written on our itinerary), and the driver said that that's the international airport, but we were taking Kingfisher which is a domestic airline! Because the airports were 4km apart and we were running late, we only had one chance to get it right. We called around to confirm that it was in fact the domestic terminal that we had to go to, and we found out that both of the airports have the same name (CST), but only the international one is referred to as CST while the other one is referred to as Santa Cruz. How dumb is that?!? Seriously, give your airports different names, please. But whew, at least we made it to the right one.
7ish - Aboard the Kingfisher flight to Hyderabad. Can you believe that on a one-hour flight, they still served us dinner? And it was a good dinner too! I had some sort of Chinese-saucey chicken, veggies, and a brownie. I was happy. Kingfisher is apparently the way to go around here. :)
9pm - Finally home. Time to relax. I told you it was a busy and tiring weekend. And you wonder why it took me so long to post about it .....